In order to get to the next forest on my list, I needed to go through a very cliched desert.
The all day excursion was simple and packed with places to visit: drive south to Albuquerque, then north to Jemez where I’d check out the Gilman Tunnels. From there, go to McCauley Springs (4 miles hike), then Spence Springs (1.2 miles), then Jemez Falls (1.4 miles), and then drive back home from the north, making a giant loop.
My errand in Albuquerque took longer than I anticipated so we got off to a late start. The landscape, however, had not changed during our delay. Outside the Jemez Visitor Center, the earth was iron-red.
My errand in Albuquerque took longer than I anticipated so we got off to a late start. The landscape, however, had not changed during our delay. Outside the Jemez Visitor Center, the earth was iron-red.
There I learned that the Gilman Tunnels were still closed, so that knocked one thing off our list. The man at the counter said he always sent visitors to McCauley Springs. I worried this meant there would be way too many unprepared tourists. However, the reviews on line stated that the trail was hard to find. I hoped this weeded out many visitors.
The trail began at Battleship Rock, so the campground was easy to find. The trail wasn’t terribly difficult to find either. I simply looked for the post marked “TRAIL.” It seems other people followed ribbons to campsites. Or perhaps there were more confusing offshoots a couple miles into the trail itself.
Tucker took a quick dip into the stream that ran through the campground, rated the taste and texture of the water, and then we were off.
The trail began at Battleship Rock, so the campground was easy to find. The trail wasn’t terribly difficult to find either. I simply looked for the post marked “TRAIL.” It seems other people followed ribbons to campsites. Or perhaps there were more confusing offshoots a couple miles into the trail itself.
Tucker took a quick dip into the stream that ran through the campground, rated the taste and texture of the water, and then we were off.
Not far along, a family of over a dozen people came down the trail toward us.
The young blond woman wearing sunglasses said, slightly out of breath, “Have you been up to the springs?”
Her tone made me respond with, ‘No, why? Is it terrible?”
She laughed. “Oh, I don’t know. We didn’t get up there. Just wondering how long of a hike it is.”
I told them it should be 2 miles each way with a 900 foot elevation gain. A man with a child on his shoulders attempted a shrug. “That’s not too bad.”
“How far did you get?” I asked.
“Not far,” the woman said. “We have ten kids with us.”
Understood. Four adults, ten children… probably not up for a steep, hot hike. I commended her attempt.
“We’re just going to play around in the stream instead.”
I told her of Spence Springs which is much shorter and easier and she said they might give that one a try later.
The family really hadn’t gotten far at all. Shortly after parting ways, I came upon a sign, that although on the ground, clearly stated “MCCAULEY SPRINGS 2 MILES —>”
Tucker and I climbed up the path and at the first intersection, I checked alltrails, and correctly chose the right way.
The views gave us the illusion that we were miles from civilization.
The young blond woman wearing sunglasses said, slightly out of breath, “Have you been up to the springs?”
Her tone made me respond with, ‘No, why? Is it terrible?”
She laughed. “Oh, I don’t know. We didn’t get up there. Just wondering how long of a hike it is.”
I told them it should be 2 miles each way with a 900 foot elevation gain. A man with a child on his shoulders attempted a shrug. “That’s not too bad.”
“How far did you get?” I asked.
“Not far,” the woman said. “We have ten kids with us.”
Understood. Four adults, ten children… probably not up for a steep, hot hike. I commended her attempt.
“We’re just going to play around in the stream instead.”
I told her of Spence Springs which is much shorter and easier and she said they might give that one a try later.
The family really hadn’t gotten far at all. Shortly after parting ways, I came upon a sign, that although on the ground, clearly stated “MCCAULEY SPRINGS 2 MILES —>”
Tucker and I climbed up the path and at the first intersection, I checked alltrails, and correctly chose the right way.
The views gave us the illusion that we were miles from civilization.
Battleship Rock rose up from the forest as if the treetops were waves of the ocean.
Even mountains in the distance were beautiful from up here.
The climb was steep, but it shouldn’t be a long climb, so we kept going. The views were worth every step.
Further up the trail, we came across two young women drenched in sweat sitting beneath a Pinon bush. The shade was growing more sparse the higher we rose.
“On your way up or down?” I asked.
“Up,” one replied in a breath.
I didn’t think it was all that bad. But the lack of shade was worrying me. Tucker’s tongue hung long out of his mouth and he hurried ahead as if trying to seek cooler earth to walk on. I finally stopped him, only a short distance from the girls.
“Okay, let’s go back. It’s only going to get hotter.”
Tucker is stubborn. He will never turn around on a trail until we have reached our pre-determined destination (although I've never sorted out how he knows what that is.)
But not this time.
“Okay,” he seemed to say with a quick turn and headed downhill. He stopped at the first unoccupied patch of shade and sat down.
“On your way up or down?” I asked.
“Up,” one replied in a breath.
I didn’t think it was all that bad. But the lack of shade was worrying me. Tucker’s tongue hung long out of his mouth and he hurried ahead as if trying to seek cooler earth to walk on. I finally stopped him, only a short distance from the girls.
“Okay, let’s go back. It’s only going to get hotter.”
Tucker is stubborn. He will never turn around on a trail until we have reached our pre-determined destination (although I've never sorted out how he knows what that is.)
But not this time.
“Okay,” he seemed to say with a quick turn and headed downhill. He stopped at the first unoccupied patch of shade and sat down.
There was no way we could have made it to the springs.
On our descent, we took the other half of the loop to get closer to Battleship Rock and in the hopes of finding more tree cover.
Still, by the time we reached the stream, it was, according to Tucker, too late.
Tucker walked right into the river without a missing a step and lied down, almost dragging me down with him.
On our descent, we took the other half of the loop to get closer to Battleship Rock and in the hopes of finding more tree cover.
Still, by the time we reached the stream, it was, according to Tucker, too late.
Tucker walked right into the river without a missing a step and lied down, almost dragging me down with him.
After sufficiently cooling off, we headed back to the truck and made our way to the next Springs.
It’s amazing what a little bit of elevation and difference in landscape can make in the weather.
Spence Spring was only a couple miles uphill. There was a small parking lot right at the trailhead.
Having never been to a natural springs before, I was thrown off by the posted warnings of not getting water in your nose because it could contain protozoa and bacteria dangerous to humans.
But don’t people sit in it? They lounge around in it, right? How safe is this?
Tucker and I walked by the sign as I contemplated whether or not to let Tucker into the waters at all. He’d be sure to want to taste it, and if it’s dangerous in your nose, I don’t imagine having it in your mouth and digestive system is all that good of an idea.
The trail was much more manicured than McCauley Springs.
It’s amazing what a little bit of elevation and difference in landscape can make in the weather.
Spence Spring was only a couple miles uphill. There was a small parking lot right at the trailhead.
Having never been to a natural springs before, I was thrown off by the posted warnings of not getting water in your nose because it could contain protozoa and bacteria dangerous to humans.
But don’t people sit in it? They lounge around in it, right? How safe is this?
Tucker and I walked by the sign as I contemplated whether or not to let Tucker into the waters at all. He’d be sure to want to taste it, and if it’s dangerous in your nose, I don’t imagine having it in your mouth and digestive system is all that good of an idea.
The trail was much more manicured than McCauley Springs.
It even had a well-placed bridge that complemented Nature’s design splendidly.
The walk uphill was relatively easy; the only really steep part was the final climb to the springs.
The upper springs was occupied by a family so Tucker and I stayed down below, where only one person sat on the opposite side, taking in the sunshine and views.
The upper springs was occupied by a family so Tucker and I stayed down below, where only one person sat on the opposite side, taking in the sunshine and views.
Of course Tucker wanted to drink the water. The amount of algae and green things floating in the water was disturbing. Are hot springs really good for you?
Despite telling Tucker not to, he did get a few laps of water in, and I had to hope his lepto vaccine was working and anything else would be harmless or at least out of his system within a day.
I enjoyed the serenity of the location. It was silent (except for the family chatting on the upper spring.) There was something magical about the place.
Dragonflies danced in the air--so large and at ease, they could even be captured on film.
Dragonflies danced in the air--so large and at ease, they could even be captured on film.
Tucker just wanted to stand and look out at the wild.
We sat on the edge of the springs for a while, just taking it all in.
Tucker took a quick dip, and I asked him to get out, still not really believing that hot springs are good for you.
I decided to skip Jemez Falls this time. Tucker was enjoying the moment here, as was I. We had found what we had come for; there was no need to continue searching. Peace, nature, a trail well-hiked and sun on our faces, surrounded by mountains: Mother Nature’s loving embrace.
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